โ† ๐Ÿ’ง Water guides

Well Pump and Pressure Tank Failure

"Homes on a private well have their own water system: a pump in the well or at the house, a pressure tank, a pressure switch that turns the pump on and off, and a check valve. When one of those parts fails, the pump can keep running and push water out a burst line or fitting, or an electrical part can overheat and start a fire. The question is the same as always: wear and tear, a bad install, poor service, or a defect."

What it coversStuck pressure switches, missing relief valves, tank failures, well house fires, licensed well contractors

Step-by-step checklist

Identify

Hands off until the expert arrives. Nothing at the scene gets touched, moved, repaired, or thrown out until the origin and cause investigator has secured it. Evidence that's moved early can sink the whole recovery.

Notify

Investigate

Demand

Negotiate

Settle

1. Identify

How well systems cause water losses

  • Pressure switch sticks on. The switch's contacts stick or weld closed, so the pump keeps running past its shut-off pressure and over-pressurizes the system until a line, fitting, or tank gives way.
  • No pressure relief valve. Without one, there's nothing to release pressure when the switch fails.
  • Pressure tank failure. The tank rusts through, the bladder ruptures, or the tank bursts.
  • Fitting and tank tee leaks. Threaded fittings, unions, and connections at the tank tee crack or loosen.
  • Check valve failure. Water flows back into the well, and the pump short-cycles or runs constantly, wearing out parts and stressing the plumbing.
  • Freezing. Lines, tanks, or pumps in a well house, crawl space, or unheated room freeze and crack.

How well systems cause fires

  • Overheated or arcing pressure switch contacts
  • Pump control box or wiring failures
  • A pump running dry or nonstop until the motor overheats
  • Well house heat lamps or space heaters used to keep the pump from freezing, set too close to wood or insulation

Wear and tear, installation, service, or defect?

What you find Likely cause Who may be responsible
Old, corroded pressure tank or switch, no service history Wear and tear, lack of maintenance Usually no recovery
No pressure relief valve where the pump can build more pressure than the tank or plumbing is rated for Poor installation Well contractor or installer
Pressure switch set above the tank's rating, or tank pre-charge set wrong Poor installation or service Well contractor or service company
Burst or leak at a fitting shortly after a repair or replacement Poor service Service company
Pressure switch contacts welded shut within the first few years Possible manufacturing defect Switch manufacturer
Pressure tank failed early with no sign of misuse Possible manufacturing defect Tank manufacturer
Loose or undersized wiring at the switch or control box Poor installation Well contractor or electrician
Lines in an unheated space with no freeze protection Poor installation, and review the owner's role Installer or builder, possibly the owner
Fire from a heat lamp in the well house Usually the owner, unless a contractor set it up Owner, or the contractor who installed it

Responsible parties to consider

  • The well contractor or pump installer
  • Any service company that worked on the pump, tank, or switch
  • The electrician who wired the pump circuit
  • The manufacturer of the pump, pressure switch, pressure tank, or control box
  • A home warranty company and the contractor it sent, if one was involved
  • The builder, on new construction

Identify the equipment

Photograph the data labels on the pressure tank, the pressure switch, and the control box. If the pump is pulled from the well, photograph its label too. Many well contractors put their company sticker on the tank or control box. Most states license well contractors, so check the state licensing board for the contractor and any complaints. The county health department or state well program may also have a well record or permit showing who drilled the well and installed the pump.

Tip: big-box purchases. If the pump or tank was bought at Lowe's or Home Depot with installation, follow the big-box steps in the Water Heater Failure guide and send both the corporate and store notices.

2. Notify and investigate

Save the switch first. The pressure switch is small, cheap, and usually the first thing a tech replaces and throws away. It's often the most important piece of evidence. Ask the insured to keep it, along with the pressure tank, relief valve, check valve, and any pump pulled from the well.

Home warranty companies: protect the evidence before the tech arrives

Warranty techs usually collect the old parts as they finish the repair. Call the insured before the tech arrives, and have them:

  1. Tell the tech not to take any evidence. The pressure switch, tank, valves, fittings, and pump stay at the home.
  2. Show the tech the origin of the loss before any work starts, so the tech can photograph it before the repair.
  3. Take their own photos and video, including the pressure gauge reading, before anything is touched.
  4. Get the tech's name, company, and the warranty claim or work order number.
  5. Bag and label every removed part and keep it somewhere safe until the exam.

Who to put on notice

  • The well contractor and any service company
  • The electrician, if wiring may be involved
  • The manufacturers of the pump, switch, tank, and control box
  • The home warranty company and its contractor, if one was involved
  • Each party's carrier, once known

Evidence checklist

Mitigation records, not just the estimate. Get the moisture maps, daily moisture readings, drying logs, equipment logs, and photos showing where the water came from and how far it spread. Record them in the file and send them to the adverse carrier with the demand. The estimate alone usually isn't enough to prove the water damage.

Caution: when the mitigation company makes it worse. Occasionally the mitigation company worsens the damage, for example by showing up late, missing wet areas, pulling the drying equipment too early, or letting mold take hold. When that happens, document it clearly: the timeline, the moisture readings from each visit, and photos. The adverse carrier will argue it isn't responsible for the added damage, and the mitigation company may become a responsible party for that part of the loss.

Code and installation checks

Many state well codes and manufacturers' instructions call for a pressure relief valve when the pump can build more pressure than the tank or plumbing is rated for. Check the state's well construction and pump installation rules, and the tank and switch manufacturers' installation instructions, for the relief valve, switch settings, and tank pre-charge.

Exams

Hold a joint scene exam before repairs when possible. For fires, and for a pressure switch, pump, or control box that needs testing, hold a joint lab exam and notify every party first. A pump pulled from the well should be treated as evidence, not scrap.

3. Demand, negotiate, and settle

Liability theories

  • Against the well contractor or installer: negligent installation, including a missing relief valve, wrong settings, or poor wiring
  • Against the service company: negligent service or repair
  • Against the manufacturer: product defect and breach of warranty
  • Against the electrician: negligent electrical work

Defenses to expect

Defense How to answer it
Wear and tear, the system was old The parts' ages, service records, and the expert's findings
Lightning or a power surge caused it The expert's findings, weather records, and whether other electrical items in the home were damaged
The owner didn't protect it from freezing Who chose the location and whether the installer provided freeze protection
The owner adjusted the pressure switch The insured's statement and the service company's notes
Statute of repose Well and pump installation is often treated as an improvement to real property. Check the state's construction repose period.
Spoliation Your notice letters and joint exam invitations

Negotiating and settling

  • Well contractors are usually small, licensed businesses with commercial general liability coverage. Get their certificate of insurance.
  • Expect the installer and the switch or tank manufacturer to blame each other. Keep both on notice.
  • Review the release with the release checklist, then close with the standard closing letter and the deductible reimbursement letter.

4. Letters for this loss

Step Letter Sent to
Identify Subrogation Opening Letter to Insured Insured: keep the switch, tank, and parts
Notify Notice of Subrogation Interest and Insurance Request Well contractor, service company, electrician, manufacturers
Notify Retailer Notice and Store Notice Big-box retailer, if bought there
Notify Notice of Subrogation Interest to Adverse Carrier Each party's carrier
Investigate Evidence Preservation and Joint Scene Exam Notice and to Responsible Party All parties
Investigate Joint Lab Exam Notice All parties, before any part is tested
Demand Subrogation Demand to Adverse Carrier Carrier(s)
Negotiate Second Demand with Escalation Notice, Tolling Agreement Request Carrier(s)
Settle Release Review Checklist, Closing (Made Whole) or Pro Rata, Deductible Reimbursement Client and insured
No recovery Withdrawal Letter, No Recovery Closing Letter Carrier and client

Sources